Paris from fresh perspectives

Thursday, November 11, 2021

III.1.4. BEYOND THE TOWERS




In brief
  • Asians enliven Parisian sobriety
  • A park that evokes Asians and kings
  • The Tang supermarkets
  • Distinctive shops align

*    *    *

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Asians enliven Parisian sobriety




Posted by Catherine Aubin at 7:21 PM
Labels: 3.1.4. Beyond the towers

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Catherine Loveland Aubin

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MENU

  • 0. Ignored gaps reveal another past (1)
  • 0.1. How these views began (1)
  • 0.2. Thanks! (1)
  • 0.3. Details (1)
  • 0.4. Contents (1)
  • 1. WHAT MAKES FRANCE DISTINCT (1)
  • 1.1. Setting the scene (1)
  • 1.2. Players: legendary or unsung (1)
  • 1.2.1. Kings at heart of French civ. (1)
  • 1.2.2. Court women's gift of refinement (1)
  • 1.2.3. Church monarchy's partner (1)
  • 1.2.4. Small farms' impact (1)
  • 1.2.5. Rebels' demand for justice (1)
  • 1.2.6. Exiles & expats (1)
  • 1.2.7. French language: an explosive gift (1)
  • 1.2.8. Immigrant energies (1)
  • 2. AN UNSUSPECTED CITY (1)
  • 2.1. The logic of the legendary core (1)
  • 2.1.1. A spectral rampart (4)
  • 2.1.2. Saint-Germain: rampart heir (10)
  • 2.1.3. Lords step out from the shadows (6)
  • 2.1.4. Back to the rampart On to the river (5)
  • 2.1.5. Palaces: glory & demise (10)
  • 2.1.6. Detour: willfully erasing the past (4)
  • 2.2. Brands take over the historic center (1)
  • 2.2.1. Palais-Royal now (7)
  • 2.2.2. Left-bank oasis & recent past (6)
  • 2.2.3. "Real" Paris's affordable shopping (8)
  • 2.3. TRDE RTE FR PILGRMS & KINGS (1)
  • 2.3.1. Medieval spirits linger (9)
  • 2.3.2. The street of royal power (10)
  • 2.3.3. Transforming rebel neighborhoods (1)
  • 2.3.4. Crime. Nobles. Garment district (6)
  • 2.3.5. Louis's arc looms over the route (1)
  • 2.3.6. Toward the horizon (6)
  • 2.3.7. Immigrants energize tradition (3)
  • 2.4. Family visits (1)
  • 2.4.1. If you come with little boys (1)
  • 2.4.2. Street art & true story (4)
  • 2.4.3. A mini-wood where children play (1)
  • 2.4.4. New horizons (1)
  • 2.4.5. Introduction to the Louvre (7)
  • 2.5. NOBLES GODS AND HEROES (1)
  • 2.5.1. The primacy of hereditary rank (1)
  • 2.5.2. Everything aids the overclass (1)
  • 2.5.3. Allegory: nobles' weapon (4)
  • 2.5.4. The Church omits pagan decor... (1)
  • 2.5.5. Detour: Anecdotes or economy? (1)
  • 2.6. The gods' modernity (1)
  • 2.6.1. First great work of defiance (1)
  • 2.6.2. Goddess a plebeian revolutionary (1)
  • 2.6.3. The goddess's descendants (1)
  • 2.7. WHAT OPERA TOURS WON'T SAY (1)
  • 2.7.1. A palace for a new elite (4)
  • 2.7.2. Backers sex & money (6)
  • 2.7.3. Blackout? (6)
  • 2.8. From nymphs to Nazis (1)
  • 2.8.1. Place Vendôme & the Occupation (1)
  • 2.8.2. Why Paris didn't burn (1)
  • 3. VITALITY ON OTHER SIDE TRACKS (1)
  • 3.1. Europe's "Chinatown" (1)
  • 3.1.1. A walk where cultures mix (4)
  • 3.1.2. Colors of streets & shops (4)
  • 3.1.3. High-rises ahead of their time (6)
  • 3.1.4. Beyond the towers (5)
  • 3.1.5. Some of the restaurants (5)
  • 3.1.6. Asians emerge from shadows (4)
  • 3.2. The east: New worlds appear (1)
  • 3.2.1. Memories of insurrection (5)
  • 3.2.2. Streets where art springs up (5)
  • 3.3. A path through "real Paris" (1)
  • 3.4. "Barbès don't panic" (1)
  • 3.4.1. Back to the wine tax (1)
  • 3.4.2. A dark past forgotten now (1)
  • 3.4.3. A métro station & a movie theater (1)
  • 3.4.4. Toward La Goutte d'Or (1)
  • 3.4.5. The media: prejudice & fear (1)
  • 3.4.6. (Not very) threatening youth (1)
  • 3.4.7. Take another look (1)
  • 3.5. ENERGY OF LA GOUTTE D'OR (1)
  • 3.5.1. A setting of "Gauls" (8)
  • 3.5.2. Art known mainly to neighbors (7)
  • 3.5.3. First steps in another land (8)
  • 3.5.4. "Looks:" an art of sociability (10)
  • 3.5.5. Textiles & Tailors (8)
  • 3.5.6. A couturier for Kenzo &... (5)
  • 3.5.7. Gentrification with brakes (6)
  • 3.5.8. "Emerging design hub of Paris" (8)
  • 3.5.9. Africans' buoyant creativity (5)
  • 3.5.9.x. Suddenly visible Blacks (8)
  • 3.5.9.xx Tomorrow's destination? (7)
  • 3.5.9.xxx A plce Gtrd. Stein wd hv liked... (4)
  • 4. WHY IS THE CITY SO GRAND? (1)
  • 4.1. Majesty on a human scale (1)
  • 4.1.1. A parade route changes course (11)
  • 4.1.2. The milestones' meanings (7)
  • 4.1.3. Design inconceivable elsewhere (6)
  • 4.1.4. The royal imprint blossoms (5)
  • 4.1.5. The curtain falls (13)
  • 4.2. A modern royal city (1)
  • 4.2.1. The Grand Axis as model (1)
  • 4.2.2. Perspectives & city's grandeur (1)
  • 4.2.3. "Places" stay royal (1)
  • 4.2.4. Detour: Victors on horseback (1)
  • 4.2.5. Detour: heroes on white horses (1)
  • 4.3. Have the kings become subversive? (4)
  • 4.3. HVE KNGS BECME SUBVERSVE? (1)
  • 5. CRADLE OF UPHEAVAL (1)
  • 5.1. History: which facts? (1)
  • 5.1.1. "Liberty Equality Fraternity"... (1)
  • 5.1.2. 1830: capitalists' neglectd triumph (1)
  • 5.1.3. Boring history: a tool (1)
  • 5.2. 1830: The people fooled (1)
  • 5.2.1. Class goals diverge (1)
  • 5.2.2. Faceless poor & bourgeois heroes (1)
  • 5.2.3. More on bourgeois heros (1)
  • 5.2.4. Freedom's ambiguous painting (1)
  • 5.2.5. A lame homage to the plebes (1)
  • 5.2.6. The July Column: as evasive (1)
  • 5.2.7. Victor Hugo's "Time of riots" (1)
  • 5.2.8. An intelligent ogre checks in (1)
  • 5.2.9. Algeria enters France's story (1)
  • 5.3. 1848: fooled again (1)
  • 5.3.1. Insurrection by accident (1)
  • 5.3.2. 1848: Schism looms (1)
  • 5.3.3. Popular discipline terrifies (1)
  • 5.3.4. The upheaval overwhelms Europe (1)
  • 5.3.5. Feudal rulers emerge still stronger (1)
  • 5.4. WORKER INSURRECTION (1)
  • 5.4.1. A republic for the happy few (1)
  • 5.4.2. Workers' revolt announces future (1)
  • 5.4.3. Provincial nobles answer call (1)
  • 5.4.4. Young delinquents join in (1)
  • 5.4.5. Empathy from a countess alone (1)
  • 5.4.6. An authoritarian comes to power (1)
  • 5.5. Historical museum & insurrections (1)
  • 5.5.1. Spectacular homage to elites (1)
  • 5.5.2. Fr Revolution almost peaceful (1)
  • 5.5.3. Revolts shown before renovation (1)
  • 5.5.4. 1830: modish fighters (1)
  • 5.5.5. 1848: Fighting is (almost) deleted (1)
  • 5.5.6. June 1848 gets two sentences... (1)
  • 5.5.7. Barricades: a game for kids (1)
  • 5.6. FEAR & URBAN GRANDEUR (1)
  • 5.7. Remaking the city (1)
  • 5.7.1. An "ounce of prevention" (1)
  • 5.7.2. Open the town to the army (1)
  • 5.7.3. Huge spaces to assemble troops (1)
  • 5.7.4. A fountain to crush socialism (1)
  • 5.7.5. New arteries' military purpose (1)
  • 5.7.6. A "masterly line" cuts thru the east (1)
  • 5.7.7. Grand voids of the blue-collar east (1)
  • 5.7.8. A similar site shows... (1)
  • 5.7.9. A void confirms ties to monarchy (1)
  • 5.7.9.x Notre-Dame: eternity to repressn (1)
  • 5.7.9.xx Planned shelling's happy results (1)
  • 5.7.9.xxx The hospital garden (1)
  • 5.8. Gifts of repression (1)
  • 5.8.1. Adapting royal majesty (1)
  • 5.8.2. Beauty whose brutal start ignored (1)
  • 5.8.3. Progressives hijack strts & spaces (1)
  • 5.8.4. A market replaces an army (1)
  • 6. LA COMMUNE (1)
  • 6.1. Egalitarianism breaks through (1)
  • 6.2. "The Terrible Year:" 1870-1871... (1)
  • 6.2.1. A war of choice brings disaster (10)
  • 6.2.2. Explosion (8)
  • 6.2.3. Civil war & carnage (11)
  • 6.2.4. Ruins. Revenge. Evolution. (10)
  • 6.3. Mystification (1)
  • 6.3.1. The victors' view (6)
  • 6.3.2. The view now (7)
  • 6.3.3. Two historians fight back (2)
  • 6.4. Fraternity that worked (1)
  • 6.4.1. Pariahs take charge of their lives (1)
  • 6.4.2. Leaders we wish we had (1)
  • 6.4.3. Victories of La Commune (1)
  • 6.4.5. A rooted memory (1)
  • 6.4.6. "Friends of the Paris Commune" (1)
  • 6.5. An omen and a turning point (1)
  • 6.5.1. A foretaste of genocide (1)
  • 6.5.2. Toward the 20th century (1)
  • 7. A COMMUNARD BASTION (1)
  • 7.1. The fight for the hilltop (1)
  • 7.1.1. Frenzied combat (1)
  • 7.1.2. Communard fighters (1)
  • 7.1.3. The Communard spirit continues (1)
  • 7.1.4. A panel mentions La Commune... (1)
  • 7.2. An epicenter of misery (1)
  • 7.2.1. Vanished industry (1)
  • 7.2.2. Disease. Crime. Revolt (1)
  • 7.3. Third-world rev. training ground (1)
  • 7.4. An outskirt that used to be chilling (1)
  • 8. A PAST FORGOTTEN & INDELIBLE (1)
  • 8.1. In the footsteps of "demons" (1)
  • 8.1.1. Church where last battle fought (1)
  • 8.1.2 .Passage by which survivors fled (1)
  • 8.1.3. Street with City-run residences (1)
  • 8.1.4. Sculptures. Bikes. Gyms. Gardens (1)
  • 8.1.5. More services. More gardens... (1)
  • 8.1.6. Electn posters in a real democracy (1)
  • 8.2. Shops Communards wd hv valued (1)
  • 8.3. LOST INDUSTRY'S TRACES (1)
  • 8.3.1. Gardens replace a sugar refinery (1)
  • 8.3.2. Giant park on a gas-making site (1)
  • 8.3.3. Posters on park railings (1)
  • 8.4. Cluster of unstandardized arts (1)
  • 8.4.1. Giant murals announce the 13th (1)
  • 8.4.2. Street art cheers gray winters (1)
  • 8.4.3. Arts that City Hall promotes (1)
  • 8.4.4. Arts discovered by chance (1)
  • 8.5. A district that leans left (1)
  • 8.5.1. Part of a Social-Democratic city (1)
  • 8.5.2. Posters & signs (1)
  • 8.5.3. The May Day parade begins (1)
  • 8.6. The city's newest festival (1)
  • 8.6.1. A banquet under the aerial métro (1)
  • 8.6.2. Asians launch the fête (1)
  • 8.6.3. The arts through new techniques (1)
  • 8.6.4. Silent movies in the park (1)
  • 8.6.5. Ethnic dancers from neighborhood (1)
  • 8.6.6. Drums. Dance. Music. Juggling (1)
  • 8.6.7. Grand Finale (1)
  • 8.7. More gifts from City Hall (1)
  • 8.8. A place to pitch your tent? (1)
  • 8.9. WHAT HAPPENED: THE WAR DID (1)
  • 8.9.1. "Better Hitler than Blum"... (1)
  • 8.9.2. Conservatives & the Resistance (1)
  • 9. EPILOGUES (1)
  • 9.2. "Don't you have an agenda?" (1)
  • 9.3."Yr teachng Comunsm to th police!" (1)
  • 9.4. "Yr misled but not bought. Join us!" (1)
  • x. INDEX (1)
  • x.i. Importance of the economic base (1)
  • x.ii. Omissions by trusted authorities (1)
  • x.iii. Dramas show how things work (1)
  • x.iv. Notice anomalies & details (1)
  • x.v. Priorities that urban designs reveal (1)
  • x.v. Visits based on observation (1)
  • x.vi. Mythology & nbles' claim of primacy (1)
  • x.vii. Outskirts: cauldrons of the arts (1)
  • x.viii. Recommendations (1)

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      • III.1. EUROPE'S "CHINATOWN"
      • III.1.1. A WALK WHERE CULTURES MIX
      • "PORTE" (GATE) DE CHOISY
      • COME TO "L'ARCHE DE LA FRATERNITÉ"
      • THERE AND NEARBY, CULTURES INTERTWINE
      • III.1.2. COLORS OF STREETS AND SHOPS
      • THE OTHER ARTERY (AVENUE D'IVRY)
      • A CLUSTER OF SHOPS AT THE CROSSROAD
      • THE REST OF THE STREET SEEMS ORDINARY AT FIRST
      • III.1.3. HIGH-RISES BUILT AHEAD OF THEIR TIME
      • MEANT TO ANNOUNCE UTOPIA...
      • AN ENCLAVE
      • AUTONOMY
      • THE INSPIRATION OF ROYAL SQUARES
      • A HISTORICAL PANEL THAT SKIPS WHAT COUNTS...
      • III.1.4. BEYOND THE TOWERS
      • ASIANS ENLIVEN PARISIAN SOBRIETY
      • A PARK THAT EVOKES ASIANS AND KINGS
      • THE TANG SUPERMARKETS...
      • DISTINCTIVE SHOPS ALIGN
      • III.1.5. SOME OF THE RESTAURANTS
      • THE MULTITUDE ON AVENUE D'IVRY
      • A BUSTLING VIETNAMESE CANTEEN
      • THAI DECOR AS REFINED AS THE CUISINE
      • A CHINESE FEAST ON AN UNLIKELY STREET
      • III.1.6. ASIANS EMERGE FROM THE SHADOWS
      • PARISIANS ADOPT THE CHINESE NEW YEAR CELEBRATION
      • A PARADE UNIQUE IN EUROPE
      • ASIANS IN ADS, THE ULTIMATE ACCEPTANCE
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