Thursday, October 28, 2021

SITES OF THE REVOLUTION AND A HAVEN AWAY FROM THE STREET


THE ODÉON MÉTRO STAIRS LEAD TO THE STATUE OF GEORGES DANTON, AN ORATOR WHO WAS CORRUPT AND INDOMITABLE


RATP

  • When the Revolution faced defeat his cry,"Audacity, audacity and more audacity, and France will be saved!" inspired the unprecedented action that brought victory.

Wikipedia

  • "Show my head to the people. It's worth it!" he told the executioner as he stepped up to the guillotine:

Execution of Danton (detail), engraving by Charles Barbant, 1882 / zoom

A story that enters legend

Danton died simply, royally. He looked with pity to the people on the left and right, and saying to the executioner with authority : « Show my head to the people. It's worth it."

The execution did show it, turning on the scaffold, showing it on the four sides.  

There was a moment of silence [...] no one breathed [...]  

Then came a confused cry from the relieved and satisfied royalists, simulating applause : "So lives the Republic!" 

And a cry sincere and desperate from the patriots, stuck at their heart: "They have decapitated France!"  
-- History of the French Revolution by Jules Michelet, 1847 (ed.1971) pp. 570-571

# # #

Crossing the boulevard from the métro to this portal passes through the site of his 11-room residence...   

                             Pamela Spurdon

  • Find yourself in the ditch in front of the rampart:

Pamela Spurdon
 Cours de Commerce Saint-André

  • Pass the workshop where the first guillotine was made...


  • Next is the home of the ferocious journalist Jean-Paul Marat, precursor of  demagoguery now: 
 
"He abstained from abstract theories, unintelligible to the people [...]. One is surprised that the uniform violence, the same, always the same, that makes reading Marat so tiring [...]. Always the same refrain: death. No change beyond the heads to chop, 600 heads, 10 000 heads, 20, 000 heads ; he went, if I remember correctly, as far as 270,000 heads."
-- Michelet, pp. 147-148

   The Death of Marat by David, 1793 / zoom
         The painting made his assassination one of history's most famous.


-- Michelet, p. 500

...the girl seemed of old Norman stock, not flaunting her beauty, a green ribbon holding back her superb hair, under a bonnet...

"Charlotte... pulled out the knife and plunged it up the the hilt in Marat's heart."

# # #

Back to the present: establishments to skip or appreciate

  • A restaurant touts being on the site of a café where the philosophers of the Enlightenment met,  but the decor is fake, the service indifferent and the cuisine bland:

Zoom (first photo of the series)
Le Procope     
To the left of the entrance


Commercializing the past

  • The site where Marat is said to have published his paper 
    is now a place for gourmet specialties from southern France. I overheard enthusiastic comments after a tasting.

Maison Brémond 1830
On the other side of the passage

  • Many restaurants reheat and decorate dishes that are industrially-made, but here one can one watch classic, affordable French cuisine being prepared in the owner's presence:

Cèpes et figues
59-61 rue du Commerce Saint-André

The owner looks out on the passage.



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