VIII. A PAST THAT IS VANISHED YET INDELIBLE

MENU: 8. A PAST VANISHED YET INDELIBLE

"SOCIAL SERVICES ARE THE WEALTH OF THE POOR" SAYS THE MAYOR OF THE 13th DISTRICT

Struggles that have been largely forgotten are the background of the exemplary social services and promotion of innovative arts. A walk in my neighborhood introduces their imprint.

                Un Combat pendant la Commune, 1870's, zoom

The Labor Day parade (on the American May Day) begins at the 13th's City Hall. 

In brief

• In the footsteps of "demons"

• Small businesses that Communards would value

• Parks replace industrial sites

• Innovative arts flourish

• A district that leans left

• The city's newest festival

• More gifts from City Hall

• The obscure 13th, a place to pitch your tent?

• WHAT HAPPENED? THE WAR DID

• "The future comes up from behind"

*    *    *

Next,

VIII.1.
In the footsteps of "demons"

VIII.5. A DISTRICT THAT LEANS LEFT

MENU : 8.5. A district that leans left

THESE STRIKERS DEMONSTRATE AT PLACE D'ITALIE

(MAY 2024)

Residents approve.

• A Social-Democratic City
• Posters and signs
• The May Day parade begins at the 13th's City Hall

*   *   *

Next,

 8.5.1. 

A Social-Democratic City

 

VIII.5.1. A SOCIAL-DEMOCRATIC CITY

THE 13TH'S INITIATIVES COME IN PART FROM ITS MAYOR...

Zoom

Festival of ecological combat, 2025

...and are part the Social-Democratic city. Announcements from 2025:

"FOR or AGAINST greening to make 500 new streets pedestrian 

(Which happened) 

BUDGET 2025 a cantine fee from 0.13€, unchanged for 10 years

BUDGET 2025 : THE NAVIGO (transport pass) REIMBURSED FOR -18, SENIORS AND PEOPLE WITH A HANDICAP.

PARIS IS HIRING FOR ITS GARDENS

Renters, rents are stabilized in Paris. Check yours on Paris.fr/encadrement loyers

Center for youth assistance opened in March 2025

February 2026

The municipal elections of March 2026 mean that those progressive measures will continue.

      Kenzo Tribouillard /AFP

After his victory Emmanuel Grégoire, 

the Socialist-Democrat winner,

led the first-ever parade of bikes

through eastern Paris to City Hall. 

*    *    * 

Next,

8.5.2.

 Posters and signs

VIII.1. IN THE FOOTSTEPS OF "DEMONS"

 MENU: 8.1. In the footsteps of "demons"

THE PATH BY WHICH SÉRIZIER AND SURVIVING  COMMUNARDS FLED 

Start at the church where they fought the last battle.* 

*Having left the monks and their helpers near place d'Italie, Serizier and his men continued the fight "in the west." That fighting must have taken place in the huge void around the church, the army arriving by the artery built for marching troops.

-- "In the west" and the monks: Gérard Conte, Éléments d'histoire de la Commune dans le 13e arrondissement, 1981

Notre-Dame de la Gare

Harald Wolff

Toward 17h, the battle lost, the Communard survivors went home. Sérizier, who was too well known for that, took refuge in a house on rue du Château des Rentiers. 

-- Conte

     Adapted from a map of 1900 / zoom

Today's neighborhood would stupefy him,

but he would recognize the roots.

• The passage by which the survivors fled 
• City-run residences for seniors and the handicapped
• Another residence: greening, sculptures, bikes, gyms, gardens
• More social services. More gardens. Local engagement
• Election posters in a real democracy

*    *    *

Next,

 8.1.1.

The passage by which the survivors fled 

 

VIII.5.2. POSTERS AND SIGNS

A HAMMER AND SICKLE NEXT TO A BUS TERMINAL AT THE TOP OF A SLOPE, WHICH ONE SEES FROM AFAR

July 2025

Back to the area where the Communards fled

(In 2024-2025 unless otherwise said)

 2022, space leading to the series of parks on the site of  a Say sugar refinery

"For public services against the Europe of money"

                                                      Before the legislative elections of June 2024 on the railing of parc de Choisy

"Where do you think you're going if you go right?"

 

Elections 2024, corner rues Sthrau / Nationale

"Racists vote. And you?"  "Where are you on June 9?" (The day of the European elections) "The rich vote. And you?"

November 2024, corner rues Tolbiac / Baudricourt

"The Dignity of Work" / "Movement of Communist Youth of France" / "Solidarity with Palestine"

June 2024, corner  rue de Tolbiac / rue du Château des Rentiers

"Against fascism!" / The force to change it all!" (France Unbowed) / "Animal reign"

Place d'Italie, January 2025

Left: Join the Communist revolution / Middle: Health school transport research justice culture finance leisure information: Public Service Forum  / Right: Billionaires will not defeat us 

February 2025, railing of parc de Choisy

"To change it all, Popular Front" (a left-wing coalition) 

May 2025

"MEETING internationalist revolutionary,"

"They want your retirement and your children... Not a life, not a penny for their wars"

 June 2025, market under the aerial métro

"ACQUIT Anasse Kazib and all supporters of Palestine"

Rue Ponscarme

July 2025

 March 2026 (municipal election time), rue de Tolbiac

PS (the Democrat-Socialists) 40 YEARS OF TREASON

Some messages from the far left, but almost none from the right

I have lived here since 2007

and have almost never seen a right-wing sign.

*   *   *

Next,

8.5.3. 

The May Day parade begins at City Hall

VII.2.4. A WALK THROUGH AN OUTSKIRT THAT USED TO BE CHILLING

"FEW PARISIANS ARE FAMILIAR WITH THE BUTTE-AUX-CAILLES..." 

The Bièvre river

"At last she was out of the horrible cave!...

She found herself in an abandoned cabin, and the icy wind blew through its decrepit walls. A moment later she was outside, in a wasteland that sloped steeply toward the valley of the Bièvre.

The opaque black, the black of an underground tomb, was gone. Far away street lights glimmered. She was free! ...

She had one thought only: get away from the bandits... " 

-- Le Caporal by Lucien Victor-Meunier, 1909, shortened. For more extracts, please click.

A map of 1900 puts the present in perspective.

      Map of about 1900 / zoom

Quarries (please click and scroll down) protected the small houses by preventing heavy construction, and little has changed.

# # #

On a Tuesday, Friday or Sunday morning, start at the market next to place d'Italie:

Stroll up the slope.

(Rue des Cinq-Diamants)

Imagine being a resident, and knowing from the smoke, cries and firing that the Versaillais soldiers are about to climb up this passage:

The passage Barrault. (The arrow is yellow to show a location, here the enemy's path. Red arrows, as below, show our own path.)

Pass the seat of Les Amis de la Commune de Paris* with its mosaic of the rebels' general... 

*Friends of the Commune of Paris

At a grocery turn right to place de la Commune and its

street art:

Rue de la Butte-aux-Cailles

Place de la Commune

Turn back along the street of restaurants, cafés and very few cars...

The restaurant Le Temps des Cérises, named after a famous song that recalls La Commune

When you come to a playground...

 Paul Verlaine park

"Book nest: take one and put another in its place." 

Turn back to the crossroad. Look at the street you recently strolled up... 

Rue des Cinq Diamants seen from the crossroad.

Turn-of-the-19th-century postcard  

The towers will seem like science fiction 

and you will be sorry to leave this peaceful haven.

End of this section.

*     *     *

Next section,

VIII.

A past that is vanished yet indelible