III.5.5. TEXTILES AND TAILORS

MENU:  3.5.5. Textiles & tailors

TEXTILES ARE EASY TO PRODUCE AND TRANSPORT, DO NOT BREAK OR SPOIL AND INDICATE SOCIAL STATUS

The demand for them is infinite and they are a major motor of economic growth — as at La Goutte d'Or.

 K.H. Afrique Mode
77 rue Doudeauville

Bazin de Fouta

20 rue Polonceau

Kumasi market

39bis, rue Doudeauville 

Textiles and their ramifications

• "Wax," a symbol of Africa

• Plebeian prints gain their letters of nobility

• Stores for wax, almost as present as barber shops

• Shops for notions follow

• Young tailors' energy

• Embroidery, a royal ornamentation

• Detour: for everything linked to sewing...

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"Wax," a symbol of Africa

"WAX," A SYMBOL OF AFRICA

THOUGH USUALLY MADE IN HOLLAND, CHINA OR INDIA, 

THE PRINTS DEPEND ON AFRICAN TASTES  

Internet, photographer unknown

The term "wax" comes from wax used to make Indonesian batik. The population rejected Dutch industrial copies...

Zoom

But soldiers from what is now Ghana liked them and brought them home (toward 1900).

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The reversable six-foot rectangle ties around the waist or is made into an outfit:

 

At the Eastern Station and the place de l'Italie mall (in the 13th)

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It can send a message:

Stay away from my man!

Emigration

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Plebeian prints gain their letters of nobility

PLEBEAIN PRINTS GAIN THEIR LETTERS OF NOBILITY

WORN OUTSIDE AFRICA ALMOST SOLELY BY  IMMIGRANTS WHO OFTEN STRUGGLE...

StreetPress

Wax has appeared...

• At the Cartier foundation, in 2015

• In an art gallery photo, in 2020

In Saint-Germain des Près, known for its galleries of contemporary art, 

• At entry of the Louvre, in 2022

• At the Musée de l'Homme, in 2025

        

             
           

The balls indicate community (artist not named).

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 Innovation often comes from below.

At la Goutte d'Or

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Stores almost as present as barber shops

STORES FOR WAX, ALMOST AS PRESENT AS BARBER SHOPS

FOR THOSE THAT INTRODUCE THIS SECTION, PLEASE CLICK BACK 

Rue de Panama 

Yatalie

18 rue de Panama

Rue Doudeauville

African Textiles

68 rue Doudeauville

K.H. Afrique Mode

77 rue Doudeauville

Rue des Poissonniers

Rue Richomme

Maison Iba

    27 rue Richommme

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Shops for notions follow

SHOPS FOR NOTIONS FOLLOW

Le Monde de Nabate 
2 rue Léon

Kheweul
7 rue Stephanson

Diam international

45 rue Myrha

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A luminous, family-owned shop that replaces zippers, sharpens scissors, makes small repairs and sells lining, thread, buttons, 

pins to sew on a vest and even recycled sewing machines:

La Grande Mercerie Château Rouge

31 bis rue Myhra

"STUDENTS, - 50% on your alterations

Religious  cloths. You can personalize your order" (cushions, table runners, bedspreads, pajamas etc.)"

Adapted from a Google map 

 

More later.

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Young tailors' energy

YOUNG TAILORS' ENERGY

  

THEY WORK FOR A COUTURIER OR JOIN A WORKSHOP IN A PLACE KNOWN FOR COUTURE AS FAR AS AFRICA ITSELF

They rent sewing machines for 2-300€ a month in a system that is illegal but tolerated, because of the work it provides:

Senegal's Issa N'Domane Sy sings in Fulani, Wolof and French. Between concerts he works for couturiers.

Entire families may depend on them and their lives are precarious, but they are always cordial and cheerful:

Fadel Couture

15 rue Affre

Sow Poullo Couture

40 rue Cave

-- "Can I take a picture?"

-- "Yes, as many as you like!" said the couturier in red in the rear of the workshop with a big smile.

A friend sits at the entry. The workshops seem as convivial as the beauty salons.

Atelier Diom Lamine

38 rue Cave

The workshops are messy...

Lack of space can mean working on the floor...

Atelier Jean Richard

Rue Jean Richard

Yet the well-done work expresses the individuality of the client, who imagines the outfit with the tailor:

           Ojabtex                           Atelier Dom Lamine

              Formerly at 30 rue des Gardes                                38 rue Cavé                                              

Atelier rue Jean Richard

I have sat in on many of these sessions —

 that's me in the mirror, taking the picture.

.

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The tailors recall times when the wealthy and couturiers created together, as Zola describes in The Kill. 

The practice declined after 1920, when a manufacturer mass-produced a dress from Chanel. He took a risk — would women wear the same thing? 

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This couture is colorful, ornamented and of simple cut. 

Its interest: impact and individual expression.

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Embroidery, a royal ornamentation