Thursday, September 30, 2021

II.1.2. SAINT-GERMAIN-DES-PRÉS, RAMPART HEIR


"THEY CROSSED THE SEINE AND CHARLIE FELT THE
SUDDEN PROVINCIAL QUALITY  OF THE LEFT BANK..." 
-- Babylon Revisited by F. Scott Fitzgerald, 1931
This is the passage where Fitzgerald
to make Saint-Germain the disorienting setting for his protagonist's defeat.

MENU: 2.1.2. Saint-Germain, rampart heir

The left bank has always been less commercial and more intellectual than the right because far from the main artery, 
it was Church land... 

Crucifixion of the Parlement of Paris, toward 1450 / zoom 

Wednesday, September 29, 2021

OUTLAWS AND PROTESTANTS LIVE BEYOND THE RAMPART


BEGGARS, THIEVES AND MARGINALS LIVE OUTSIDE THE WALL, WHERE AUTHORITIES DO NOT VENTURE

In the 16th century, Protestants join them.
--  Pascal Payen-Appenzeller, pastor and  historian of Paris,
gave some of the information here.

   The Hunchback of Notre Dame by Victor Hugo1854 ed.
Saint-Germain must have resembled this "court of miracles."

Adapted from a map of Paris in 1615 / zoom

  • They sang hymns in the fields of Saint-Germain and pastors' first meeting took place in that "Little Geneva," a reference to Calvin's republic.

  • Many were craftspeople, and living outside the city let them avoid guilds' regulations (History from fresh perspectives says more).

  • Protestantism continued in Saint-Germain despite Louis XIV's prohibition (in 1684), to avoid clashing with the Scandinavians whose embassies were located there.  

# # #

Those Protestants are a reason for Saint-Germain's intellectuality because:

  • Personal responsibility for salvation, their core belief, implies meditating on the Bible and so being able to read it, at a time when printing made books available.

  • Here a massacre interrupts a figure as he reads — outside a rampart:
            Expulsion of the Protestants of Toulouse by Antoine Rivalz, toward 1725 zoom

  • That emphasis on meditation and literacy fit the rising craftspeople, shopkeepers and lawyers who made up the mass of 16th-century Protestants in France. Sedentary, urban and obliged to keep accounts, they were usually literate.

# # #

(Built in 1877)



The portrait of the first Protestant military chief (Admiral Coligny) leans against books, and a class led by the historian mentioned above.

Photo by the mother of the little boy

The director is showing16th-century documents to German Calvinists, descendants of French Protestants who fled the kingdom when their faith was outlawed. One record is the Bible of Henri IV, who had to abjure his Protestant belief.


Tuesday, September 28, 2021

THE CHURCH AND THE "GRANDES ÉCOLES" ("great schools")


CATHOLICS TOO EXPLAIN SAINT-GERMAIN'S INTELLECTUALITY, SINCE THE CHURCH CONTROLLED THE LEFT BANK 

 Outside the wall and north of Protestant territory was the powerful abbey of Saint-Germain. Only the tower below is left.

Zoom
Its tower, neighborhood symbol

  Conference room at 4 place de Saint-Germain du Prés; access thanks to Mr. Payen-Appenzeller

Within the wall was the Sorbonne University, where much of Europe's clergy was trained

A class in theology at the 15h-century Sorbonne

# # # 

The Sorbonne is still at the heart of the French university system and the country's Great Schools* cluster around it 

* Schools whose students are admitted by competitive exam after two years of special preparation. They become state officials, are paid a salary and must work for the State for two years after graduation. For other ways in which the French system is far more democratic than that of the United States, please click.


  • The prestigious Lycée [high school] Saint-Louis, which Jesuits founded in the 16th century to train the sons of the elite, is across the boulevard and the Schools of Law and Medicine are steps away.

  • The École Normale Supérieur, the École des Sciences Politiques, the Faculté de Jussieu and the Collège de France are in the neighborhood.

  •  The École Polytechnique and École Centrale were there until moved to the suburbs (in 1964 and 2015 respectively).



The bus stop next to the Sorbonne
 is called "Les Écoles" (The Schools).

*    *    *

Next,



Monday, September 27, 2021

INTELLECTUALS, CAFÉS AND THE OCCUPATION


BOOKSELLERS, EDITORS, WRITERS, STUDENTS, PROFESSORS, GALERY OWNERS, MOVIE MAKERS (...) MET IN THE CAFÉS

One could make phone calls there and stay indefinitely for the cost of a cup of coffee. 

# # #

During the winters of the Occupation cafés became essential because they were (on the whole) heated. Below is a rare photograph, with German officers on café terrace in summer.
I don't know of any inside, an at café Flore, on boulevard Saint-Germain, there couldn't be any. In recalling its ambiance the writer and philosopher Simone de Beauvoir shows why:

    Zoom

The winter [of 1942] was harsh....

Working inside my room with its glacial humidity was impossible. At the Flore it was not cold, and the acetylene lamps gave a little light when the electricity went off. That is when we became used to spending our free time there. We did not find only a relative comfort [...]: We felt sheltered, at home. 

[...] I would try to arrive at the opening to take the best place, that where it was warmest, near the stove [...].

A certain number of habitués would install themselves like me at the marble tables to read and work. [...] 

Every day, toward 10 a.m., 
two newspapermen would sit side by side
in the back and spread out Le Matin
 [a collaborationist  journal]. 

They would comment on the events in a disillusioned way [...] "The way things are going, we'll never get rid of those kikes!" [...] I didn't mind hearing them; there was in their faces, their remarks, something so ridiculous that, for a moment, the collaboration, fascism, antisemitism, seemed like a joke for dumbbells. And then I remembered, appalled, that they harmed [mention of people who have vanished follows]. 

No one associated with those two collaborators, except a little brown man, with curly hair, who said he was secretary to Laval [the Vichy regime's Prime Minister].

[...] Were there other spies? At the start of the occupation, two or three Flore habitués had been arrested; who had denounced them? No one knew. In any case, now no one conspired lightly, and if a few members of the Resistance hung around cafés, it was to provide a facade. [...] 

On the whole, the clients of the Flore were resolutely hostile to fascism and to collaboration, and did not hide it.  The occupiers must have known it, for they never came inside. Once a young German officer came in and sat down in a corner with a book; no one moved, but he must have felt something for he soon closed his book, paid his bill and left.  

Gradually in the course of the morning
the room filled up.
By the time of the apéritif, it was full.
 

Picasso smiled at Dora Marr who had a big dog on a leash; [...] Jacques Prévert speechified; there were noisy discussions at the table of the movie-makers, who, since 1939, came almost every day. [...]

Yet the two newspapermen continued to dream out loud the extermination of the Jews [...].

One always had a shock of pleasure, at night, when one emerged from the cold shadows tp enter int that warm and illuminated haunt, with its cheerful blue and red colors. The whole "family" was sometimes there, but scattered, according to our principles, throughout the room [for security?] [...]

In spite of the restrictions and the alerts,
 we found at the Flore 
a recollection of the years of peace.
 But the war crept into our querencia.

We were told one morning that Sonia had just been arrested [...]. A few days later, at dawn,  Bella was sleeping in the arms of the boy she loved when the Gestapo knocked at their door and took her away [...]. We still knew little about the camps but the silence that engulfed such merry girls was terrifying. Jausion and his friends continued to come to the Flore and sit in the same places; they spoke among themselves with somewhat hagard agitation; no sign suggested, on the red seat, the chasm that had appeared next to them. That was what to me seemed most intolérable in the absence; that it was exactly nothing. But images of  Bella, if the blond Czech, de la Tchèque blonde, did not erase themselves from my memory: they signified thousands of others. Hope was starting to stir, but I knew that never again would the fallacious innocence of the past reappear.  
-- The Prime of Life, II, ed.1960, pp. 606-612 (my trans.)

Zoom
Simone de Beauvoir at that time.

Sunday, September 26, 2021

THE LIBERATION AND A BRIEF GOLDEN AGE


THE LIBERATION BROUGHT AUSTERE EXISTENTIALISM*  AND EXUBERANT BE-BOP.

*Man is alone and must choose his way, an idea that fit the wartime choice between supporting the Resistance and passivity.

Images of the time

Juliette Gréco and Jean-Paul Sartre are to the right

To our Glories of the 6th Arrondissement (upper level) by Georges Patrix, 1951 / zoom

Café Le Flore, which Simone de Beauvoir describes

 Video / zoom

Juliette Gréco on boulevard Saint-Germain in front of a café


The rollicking jitterbug


Same time and place


No more room! 


# # #

Jean-Paul Sartre, Boris Vian, a friend and Simone de Beauvoir



Boris Vian, jazzman and writer



Albert Camus, writer and activist



The legend
Symbols: The steeple and Gréco

Movies


Rendez-vous de juillet ("Meeting in July) by Jacques Becker
A movie about post-war youth, made in 1949

The neighborhood's fame 
brought an influx of tourists. 
They hastened the end of a fête 
that in any case was incompatible
 with the coming economic transformation.

*     *     *



Saturday, September 25, 2021

HOLLYWOOD'S TAKE


FRED ASTAIRE SEEKS AUDREY HEBBURN IN SAINT-GERMAIN*

*Funny Face by Stanley Donen, 1957





He comes to a "cave" that is shady and sexy...

  
"This must be the place."


  • He finds Audrey thinking she engaged in an intellectual discussion with two men who in fact are drunk. The scene is in the first half of the movie, which is gone from YouTube, but a critic for the London Times writes:   

"There is that in the film's attitude towards the 'intellectual' which offends. It is not amiable parody and it is not telling satire; it has its roots in the ill-based instinct to jeer, and its jeers are offensive."

  • She performs modern dance 
    to evoke intellectuality, though it was the opposite of the Liberation's ebullient jitterbug that was danced in fact.
     


Video, Existentialism at Saint-Germain-des-Prés, 1951 / zoom

  •  When the elegant philosopher who fascinates Audrey turns out to be a wolf, she chooses homespun Fred.

Subtext:
Rough-edged, moral America
wins out over sophisticated, decadent France.

Involuntary avowal:
Americans proud of their anti-intellectualism
cheer Fred's triumph
because Saint-Germain's intelligence 
makes them feel inferior.