Monday, September 30, 2024

II.1.2. SAINT-GERMAIN-DES-PRÉS, RAMPART HEIR



MENU: 2.1.2. Saint-Germain, rampart heir

"THEY CROSSED THE SEINE AND CHARLIE FELT THE
SUDDEN PROVINCIAL QUALITY OF THE LEFT BANK..." 
-- Babylon Revisited by F. Scott Fitzgerald, 1931
This is the passage where Fitzgerald leaves the wealthy, Americanized area around the Hotel Ritz
                         to make Saint-Germain the disorienting setting for his protagonist's defeat.

The area would become legendary as the planet's most intellectual neighborhood, where lived Sartre, Beauvoir, Camus, Picasso, Sydney Bechet, Richard Wright (...). One still crosses paths with stars in all domains.
 .
The left bank was always less commercial and more intellectual than the right. One reason: it was on the other side of the river from the main artery, which gave right-bank production its start. Another: The land belonged to the Church, which stressed learning, not commerce.

Adapted from Mappy

Intellectuality flowered most in Saint-Germain — because of the city wall. 

Crucifixion of the Parlement of Paris, toward 1450 / zoom 

Sunday, September 29, 2024

OUTLAWS AND PROTESTANTS LIVE BEYOND THE RAMPART


BEGGARS, THIEVES AND MARGINALS LIVE OUTSIDE THE WALL, WHERE AUTHORITIES DO NOT VENTURE

In the 16th century, Protestants join them.
--  Pascal Payen-Appenzeller, pastor and  historian of Paris,
gave some of the information here.

   The Hunchback of Notre Dame by Victor Hugo1854 ed.
Saint-Germain must have resembled this "court of miracles."

Adapted from a map of Paris in 1615 / zoom

  • They sang hymns in the fields of Saint-Germain and pastors' first meeting took place in that "Little Geneva," a reference to Calvin's republic.

  • Many were craftspeople, and living outside the city let them avoid guilds' regulations (History from fresh perspectives says more).

  • Protestantism continued in Saint-Germain despite Louis XIV's prohibition (in 1684), to avoid clashing with the Scandinavians whose embassies were located there.  
# # #

Those Protestants explain Saint-Germain's intellectuality because:

  • Their core belief, of personal responsibility for salvation, implied pondering the  Bible as opposed to accepting additions to it (Purgatory, the saints, the Papacy, mass...). That point of departure was intellectual in itself. 

  • That meant being able to read, which most of the population could not. But the craftspeople, shopkeepers and lawyers who made up the mass of 16th-century Protestants in France, were literate. The invention of printing and the translation of the Bible into their own language greatly encouraged their adhesion to the new faith.

Expulsion of the Protestants of Toulouse by Antoine Rivalz, the official painter of Toulouse, toward 1725 zoom
A massacre interrupts a Protestant as he reads — outside a rampart:

# # #

A gift to Paris: the superb Library of the history of Protestantism:
(Built in 1877)



The portrait of the first Protestant military chief (Admiral Coligny) appropriately leans against books, and a class led by the historian mentioned above.

Photo by the mother of the little boy

The director is showing 16th-century documents to German Calvinists, descendants of French Protestants who fled the kingdom when their faith was outlawed (in 1684). One record is the Bible of Henri IV, the Protestant chief who to enter Paris abjured his faith and accepted Catholicism: "Paris is worth a mass," he famously said.

# # #

The educated residents attracted editors and librarians,
then galeries of contemporary art.

Saint Germain became 
a neighborhood of intellectuals.


Saturday, September 28, 2024

THE CHURCH AND THE GRANDES ÉCOLES ("great schools")


CATHOLICS TOO EXPLAIN SAINT-GERMAIN'S INTELLECTUALITY, SINCE THE LEFT BANK WAS CHURCH LAND

Outside the wall was the powerful abbey of Saint-Germain. 

       Adapté d'un plan de 1550 / zoom

All that is left is a steeple, the area's symbol...

     Zoom
And the remains of a tower, hidden from the street:

    Conference room at 4 place de Saint-Germain du Prés, thanks to Pascal Payen-Appenzeller, cited on the preceding page. 

Within the wall was the Sorbonne University:

A class in theology at the 15h-century Sorbonne

Though reactionary...

The Université of Paris was then Christendom's highest spiritual authority, after the Pope. It made up a veritable federative republic with its territory, its justice, its enormous privileges... .  

Fiercely independent, ultramontaine, conservative, the Université hater innovators. It had abandoned Joan of Arc. It had encouraged 6000 Parisian copyists and illuminators to accuse printers of sorcery. Without seriously discussing the nascent Reform, it denounced it as a crime worthy of the most extreme punishment [burning alive].

-- Le Massacre de la Saint-Barthlemy by Philippe Erlanger, 1960, p.3.

It encouraged the unity of Christendom by training most of the clergy, which gave Europe a homogenous philosophy and the literate a language to communicate.  

# # # 

The Sorbonne is still at the heart of the French university system and the country's Great Schools* cluster around it 

*Schools whose students are admitted by competitive exam after two years of special preparation. They become state officials, are paid a salary and must work for the State for two years after graduation. For other ways in which the French system is far more democratic than that of the United States, please click.


  • The prestigious Lycée [high school] Saint-Louis, which Jesuits founded in the 16th century to train the sons of the elite, is across the boulevard and the Schools of Law and Medicine are steps away.

  • The École Normale Supérieur, the École des Sciences Politiques, the Faculté de Jussieu and the Collège de France are in the neighborhood.

  •  The École Polytechnique and École Centrale were there until moved to the suburbs (in 1964 and 2015 respectively).



The bus stop next to the Sorbonne
 is called "Les Écoles" (The Schools).

*    *    *

Next,



Friday, September 27, 2024

INTELLECTUALS, CAFÉS AND THE OCCUPATION


BOOKSELLERS, EDITORS, WRITERS, STUDENTS, PROFESSORS, GALERY OWNERS, MOVIE MAKERS (...) MET IN THE CAFÉS

One could make phone calls there and stay indefinitely for the cost of a cup of coffee. 

Adapted from a Mappy plan

# # #

During the winters of the Occupation cafés became essential because they were (on the whole) heated. Below is a rare photograph, with German officers on café terrace in summer.
I don't know of any inside, an at café Flore, on boulevard Saint-Germain, there couldn't be any. In recalling its ambiance the writer and philosopher Simone de Beauvoir shows why:

    Zoom

The winter [of 1942] was harsh....

Working inside my room with its glacial humidity was impossible. At the Flore it was not cold, and the acetylene lamps gave a little light when the electricity went off. That is when we became used to spending our free time there. We did not find only a relative comfort [...]: We felt sheltered, at home. 

[...] I would try to arrive at the opening to take the best place, that where it was warmest, near the stove [...].

A certain number of habitués would install themselves like me at the marble tables to read and work. [...] 

Every day, toward 10 a.m., 
two newspapermen would sit side by side
in the back and spread out Le Matin
 [a collaborationist  journal]. 

They would comment on the events in a disillusioned way [...] "The way things are going, we'll never get rid of those kikes!" [...] I didn't mind hearing them; there was in their faces, their remarks, something so ridiculous that, for a moment, the collaboration, fascism, antisemitism, seemed like a joke for dumbbells. And then I remembered, appalled, that they harmed [mention of people who have vanished follows]. 

No one associated with those two collaborators, except a little brown man, with curly hair, who said he was secretary to Laval [the Vichy regime's Prime Minister].

[...] Were there other spies? At the start of the occupation, two or three Flore habitués had been arrested; who had denounced them? No one knew. In any case, now no one conspired lightly, and if a few members of the Resistance hung around cafés, it was to provide a facade. [...] 

On the whole, the clients of the Flore were resolutely hostile to fascism and to collaboration, and did not hide it.  The occupiers must have known it, for they never came inside. Once a young German officer came in and sat down in a corner with a book; no one moved, but he must have felt something for he soon closed his book, paid his bill and left.  

Gradually in the course of the morning
the room filled up.
By the time of the apéritif, it was full.
 

Picasso smiled at Dora Marr who had a big dog on a leash; [...] Jacques Prévert speechified; there were noisy discussions at the table of the movie-makers, who, since 1939, came almost every day. [...]

Yet the two newspapermen continued to dream out loud the extermination of the Jews [...].

One always had a shock of pleasure, at night, when one emerged from the cold shadows tp enter int that warm and illuminated haunt, with its cheerful blue and red colors. The whole "family" was sometimes there, but scattered, according to our principles, throughout the room [for security?] [...]

In spite of the restrictions and the alerts,
 we found at the Flore 
a recollection of the years of peace.
 But the war crept into our querencia.

We were told one morning that Sonia had just been arrested [...]. A few days later, at dawn,  Bella was sleeping in the arms of the boy she loved when the Gestapo knocked at their door and took her away [...]. We still knew little about the camps but the silence that engulfed such merry girls was terrifying. Jausion and his friends continued to come to the Flore and sit in the same places; they spoke among themselves with somewhat hagard agitation; no sign suggested, on the red seat, the chasm that had appeared next to them. That was what to me seemed most intolérable in the absence; that it was exactly nothing. But images of  Bella, if the blond Czech, de la Tchèque blonde, did not erase themselves from my memory: they signified thousands of others. Hope was starting to stir, but I knew that never again would the fallacious innocence of the past reappear.  
-- The Prime of Life, II, ed.1960, pp. 606-612 (my trans.)

Zoom
Simone de Beauvoir at that time.

Thursday, September 26, 2024

THE LIBERATION AND A BRIEF GOLDEN AGE


THE LIBERATION BROUGHT AUSTERE EXISTENTIALISM*  AND EXUBERANT BE-BOP.

*Man is alone and must choose his way, an idea that fit the wartime choice between supporting the Resistance and passivity.

Images of the time

Juliette Gréco and Jean-Paul Sartre are to the right

To our Glories of the 6th Arrondissement (upper level) by Georges Patrix, 1951 / zoom

Café Le Flore, which Simone de Beauvoir describes

 Video / zoom

Juliette Gréco on boulevard Saint-Germain in front of a café


The rollicking jitterbug


Same time and place


No more room! 


# # #

Jean-Paul Sartre, Boris Vian, a friend and Simone de Beauvoir



Boris Vian, jazzman and writer



Albert Camus, writer and activist



The legend
Symbols: The steeple and Gréco

Movies


Rendez-vous de juillet ("Meeting in July) by Jacques Becker
A movie about post-war youth, made in 1949

The neighborhood's fame 
brought an influx of tourists. 
They hastened the end of a fête 
that in any case was incompatible
 with the coming economic transformation.

*     *     *