Monday, September 30, 2024

II.1.2. SAINT-GERMAIN-DES-PRÉS, RAMPART HEIR



MENU: 2.1.2. Saint-Germain, rampart heir

"THEY CROSSED THE SEINE AND CHARLIE FELT THE
SUDDEN PROVINCIAL QUALITY OF THE LEFT BANK..." 
-- Babylon Revisited by F. Scott Fitzgerald, 1931
This is the passage where Fitzgerald leaves the wealthy, Americanized area around the Hotel Ritz
                         to make Saint-Germain the disorienting setting for his protagonist's defeat.

The area would become legendary as the planet's most intellectual neighborhood, home to Sartre, Beauvoir, Camus, Picasso, Sydney Bechet, Richard Wright (...). One still crosses paths with stars in all domains, on the streets and in cafés.
 .
The left bank was always less commercial and more intellectual than the right. One reason: it was on the other side of the river from the main artery, which gave right-bank production its start. Another: The land belonged to the Church, which stressed learning, not commerce.

Adapted from Mappy

Intellectuality flowered most in Saint-Germain — because of the city wall. 

Crucifixion du Parlement of Paris, toward 1450 / zoom 

Sunday, September 29, 2024

OUTLAWS AND PROTESTANTS LIVE BEYOND THE RAMPART


BEGGARS, THIEVES AND MARGINALS LIVE OUTSIDE THE WALL, WHERE AUTHORITIES DO NOT VENTURE

Sixteenth-century Protestants join them.
--  Pascal Payen-Appenzeller, pastor and  historian of Paris,
gave some of the information here.

 Notre-Dame de Paris by Victor Hugo1854 ed.
Saint-Germain must have resembled this "court of miracles."

Adapted from a map of Paris in 1615 / zoom

  • They sang hymns in the fields of Saint-Germain and pastors' first meeting took place in that "Little Geneva," a reference to Calvin's republic.
  • Many were craftspeople, and living outside the city let them avoid guilds' regulations (History from fresh perspectives says more : Please click here and on the next pages).
  • Protestantism continued in Saint-Germain despite Louis XIV's prohibition (in 1684), to avoid clashing with the Scandinavians whose embassies were located there.  

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Those Protestants explain Saint-Germain's intellectuality because:

  • Their core belief, of personal responsibility for salvation, implied pondering the  Bible as opposed to accepting additions to it (Purgatory, the saints, the Papacy, mass...). That point of departure was intellectual in itself. 
  • That meant being able to read, which most of the population could not. But the craftspeople, shopkeepers and lawyers who made up the mass of 16th-century Protestants in France, were literate. 
                       
                                                    The Money-Lender and his Wife, Flanders, 1514 / zoom

Money and book, in Flanders not France, and a few years before Luther posts the 95 Theses on the church door, but the social point remains.

  • The invention of printing and translation of the Bible into local languages greatly encouraged the new faith.

Expulsion of the Protestants of Toulouse by Antoine Rivalz, the official painter of Toulouse, toward 1725 zoom 
     A massacre interrupts a Protestant as he reads — outside a rampart:

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A gift to Paris: the superb Library of the history of Protestantism:
(Built in 1877)



The portrait of the first Protestant military chief (Admiral Coligny) appropriately leans against books, and a class led by the historian mentioned above.

Photo by the mother of the little boy

The director is showing 16th-century documents to German Calvinists, descendants of French Protestants who fled the kingdom when their faith was outlawed (in 1684). One record is the Bible of Henri IV, the Protestant chief who to enter Paris abjured his faith and accepted Catholicism: "Paris is worth a mass," he famously said.

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The educated residents attracted editors and librarians,
then galeries of contemporary art.

©Jeanne Bucher
The famous Jeanne Bucher gallery (to be continued) began as a bookstore in the neighborhood.

Saint Germain became 
a neighborhood of intellectuals.


Saturday, September 28, 2024

THE CHURCH AND THE GRANDES ÉCOLES ("great schools")


CATHOLICS TOO EXPLAIN SAINT-GERMAIN'S INTELLECTUALITY, SINCE THE LEFT BANK WAS CHURCH LAND

Outside the wall was the powerful abbey of Saint-Germain. 

Adapted from a map of 1550 / zoom
All that is left is a steeple, the area's symbol...

     Zoom
And the remains of a tower, hidden from the street:

    Conference room at 4 place de Saint-Germain du Prés, thanks to Pascal Payen-Appenzeller, cited on the preceding page. 

Within the wall was the Sorbonne University:

A class at the 15h-century Sorbonne

Though reactionary...

The Université of Paris was then Christendom's highest spiritual authority, after the Pope. It made up a veritable federative republic with its territory, its justice, its enormous privileges... .  

Fiercely independent, ultramontaine, conservative, the University hated innovators. It had abandoned Joan of Arc. It had encouraged 6000 Parisian copyists and illuminators to accuse printers of sorcery. Without seriously discussing the nascent Reform, it denounced it as a crime worthy of the most extreme punishment [burning alive].

-- Le Massacre de la Saint-Barthlemy by Philippe Erlanger, 1960, p.3.

It encouraged the unity of Christendom by training most of the clergy, which gave Europe a homogenous philosophy and the literate a language to communicate.  

# # # 

The Sorbonne is still at the heart of the French university system and the country's Great Schools* cluster around it 

*Schools whose students are admitted by competitive exam after two years of special preparation. They become state officials, are paid a salary and must work for the State for two years after graduation. For other ways in which the French system is far more democratic than that of the United States, please click.


  • The prestigious Lycée [high school] Saint-Louis, which Jesuits founded in the 16th century to train the sons of the elite, is across the boulevard and the Schools of Law and Medicine are steps away.
  • The École Normale Supérieur, the École des Sciences Politiques, the Faculté de Jussieu and the Collège de France are in the neighborhood.
  •  The École Polytechnique and École Centrale were there until moved to the suburbs (in 1964 and 2015 respectively).



The bus stop next to the Sorbonne
 is called "Les Écoles" (The Schools).

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Next,



Friday, September 27, 2024

INTELLECTUALS, CAFÉS AND THE OCCUPATION


BOOKSELLERS, EDITORS, WRITERS, STUDENTS, PROFESSORS, GALERY OWNERS, MOVIE DIRECTORS, ACTORS (...) MET IN THE CAFÉS

It was a place from which to make phone calls, pick up messages and stay indefinitely for the cost of a cup of coffee. 

           Adapted from Mappy

# # #

These German officers at a café terrace on boulevard Saint-Germain seem at ease...

That was not the case inside the cafe "Le Flore,"at least in winter. The writer and philosopher Simone de Beauvoir explains: 

The winter [of 1942] was harsh....

Working inside my room with its glacial humidity was impossible. At the Flore it was not cold, and the acetylene lamps gave a little light when the electricity went off. That is when we became used to spending our free time there. We did not find only a relative comfort. We felt sheltered, at home.

One always had a shock of pleasure, at night, when one emerged from the cold shadows to enter that warm and illuminated haunt, with its cheerful blue and red colors. The whole "family" was sometimes there, but scattered, according to our principles, throughout the room.

Picasso smiled at Dora Marr who had a big dog on a leash;  Jacques Prévert speechified; there were noisy discussions at the table of the movie-makers, who, since 1939, came almost every day.

In spite of the restrictions and the alerts,
 we found at the Flore 
a recollection of the years of peace.
 But the war crept into our querencia.

We were told one morning that Sonia had just been arrested. A few days later, at dawn,  Bella was sleeping in the arms of the boy she loved when the Gestapo knocked at their door and took her away. We still knew little about the camps but the silence that engulfed such merry girls was terrifying. Jausion [a poet, whose Jewish fiancée had been denounced by his family and deported] and his friends continued to come to the Flore and sit in the same places; they spoke among themselves with somewhat hagard agitation; no sign suggested, on the red seat, the chasm that had appeared next to them. That was what to me seemed most intolérable in the absence; that it was exactly nothing. But images of Bella, of the blond Czech, did not erase themselves from my memory: they signified thousands of others. Hope was starting to stir, but I knew that never again would the fallacious innocence of the past reappear.  

Every day, toward 10 a.m., 
two newspapermen would sit side by side
in the back and spread out Le Matin
 [a collaborationist  journal]. 

They would comment on the events in a disillusioned way [...] "The way things are going, we'll never get rid of those kikes!" [...] I didn't mind hearing them; there was in their faces, their remarks, something so ridiculous that, for a moment, the collaboration, fascism, antisemitism, seemed like a joke for dumbbells. And then I remembered, appalled, that they harmed [mention of people who vanished follows]

No one associated with those two collaborators, except a little brown man, with curly hair, who said he was secretary to Laval [the collaborationist Vichy regime's Prime Minister].

On the whole, the clients of the Flore were resolutely hostile to fascism and to collaboration, and did not hide it. The occupiers must have known it, for they never came inside. Once a young German officer came in and sat down in a corner with a book; no one moved, but he must have felt something for he soon closed his book, paid his bill and left.  

-- La Force de l'âge II, ed.1960, pp. 606-612
(my translation, slightly shortened and adapted)

Zoom
Simone de Beauvoir at that time.

Thursday, September 26, 2024

THE LIBERATION AND A BRIEF GOLDEN AGE


THE LIBERATION BROUGHT AUSTERE EXISTENTIALISM*  AND THE EXUBERANT BOOGIE, BOTH PART OF LIFE IN CAFÉS

*Man is alone and must choose his way, an idea that fit the wartime choice between supporting the Resistance and passivity.


Juliette Gréco and Jean-Paul Sartre are on the right.

   À nos gloires du 6e arrondissement by Georges Patrix, 1951 / zoom



 

# # #

Jean-Paul Sartre, Boris Vian, an unidentified friend and Simone de Beauvoir


 


 











Albert Camus



Symbols

Movies


Rendez-vous de juillet by Jacques Becker
A movie about post-war youth, made in 1949

The neighborhood's fame 
brought an influx of tourists. 
They hastened the end of a fête
incompatible with the
economic transformation of the 1960's. 

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