THERE IS ONLY ONE SUPERMARKET, NO CHAIN STORES, NO ADS, BUT A MIX OF SHOPS THAT ARE TRADITIONAL AND NEW
Stores that overflow with African produce are even more prevalent than coiffeurs:
Rue Doudeauville
Rue des Poissonniers
When the regrettable fast-food appeared a shop for organic, locally-grown produce sprang up across the street.
Vivre(s)
39 bis rue de Doudeauville
Many stores have their own personalities:
- African music and the smell of spices
Koyaka Market
47 rue Myhra
- Spectacular peanuts
So Foods
145 rue Stephenson
Gourmet shops
- Cheese
La Laiterie parisienne
74 rue des Poissonniers
-- I'm surprised to see such a shop in this neighborhood. How do you get on?
-- Fine! At Ramadan women come to borrow the pails we use for milk to present the (excellent) cooking they sell on the sidewalk.
# # #
- Coffees and teas:
Brûlerie Barbès
14 rue des Poissonniers
- A restaurant for watching a street that is full of activity:
Haïtian Mama
20 rue Labat
# # #
Back to the Barbès métro...
- Mothers and grandmothers sit next to the railings of the Square Léon park, selling products that they have prepared themselves:
"How much?" "One euro." -- "That's very little." --"But we don't pay taxes!" (They laugh.) They didn't want their pictures taken.
- A block away from Barbès's frightening young men, a bar for artisanal beer suggests that co-existence is taken for granted.
Brasserie de la Goutte d'Or
28 rue de la Goutte d'Or
- Across the street:
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Amiprimeur
10 rue Caplat
Minutes away,
the Maghrebin youths hang out at métro Barbès:
At least from my outsider's view,
all goes well.
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