FRENCH AND AFRICAN SPECIALITIES SPRING UP

 ACROSS THE STREET FROM THE FAST-FOOD:

"There was no way we could find the 40,000 euros the real estate agency asked, but we could afford this corner."

-- Sonia, the cordial co-founder and owner

Vivre(s)

39 bis rue de Doudeauville

One minute away:

Nearby, spices and African music...

Koyaka Market

47 rue Myhra

...teas and roasted coffees...

Brûlerie Barbès

14 rue des Poissonniers 

Rayane kindly waited to close his shop for Ramadan as I took pictures, smelling the roasted coffee. 

...peanut products, etc., from the Ivory Coast...

Monsieur Abbé and his nephew Johannes

...grocery stores can have flair...

Amiprimeur

10 rue Caplat

(On the way to the Barbès métro)

...like made-on-the spot beer: A block away from Barbès's  frightening young men, co-existence seems taken for granted.

Brasserie de la Goutte d'Or

28 rue de la Goutte d'Or

# # #

Mothers and grandmothers

sit on the sidewalk next to the market

or the railings of Leon park,

selling products that they have prepared themselves:

 

--"How much?"

-- "One euro." 

--"That's very little."

--"But we don't pay taxes!" 

They laugh.

Like billionaires.

But the latter want their pictures taken,

these women don't.

*    *    *

Next,

Social services, key to the mix