EMBROIDERY: KINGS, THE STREET, A MUSEUM, A SHOW

In Rois d'Afrique ("Kings of Africa") by Daniel Lainé, 2000 (ed. Arthaud) / zoom

A Mossi king ( Burkina Faso) 

Musée d'arts premiers, Paris

*     *

  Maison Iba                                              In the 13th

           27 rue Richomme, La Goutte d'Or

À la machine 

Noor Textile

3 rue des Poissonniers

Atelier Diom Lamine

38 rue Cavé

Atelier Ngom

14 rue Ernestine

By hand, by Fadel with his own designs 

Exhibit Venise en fête at the Musée Cognac-Jay, in 2017.

*    *

Paris 360 Music Factory

*     *     *

 Next,

Tailors unite, the City helps

3.5.5. TAILORS UNITE, THE CITY HELPS

 

THEIR COOPERATIVE MAKES PROTOTYPES AND LIMITES SERIES UNDER THE LABEL "MADE IN LA GOUTTE D'OR" 

It has existed since 2000. The City backs it since 2012.

Chaussettes orphelines

Its window cand show cultures that are French, Islamic and African:  

Costume of Fadel Couture

 

Personnage invented for Nuit Blanche ("White Night" a City-sponsored event that goes on all night)

Kitty Hartl, the event's artistic director, created the figure in the cooperative's workshop. 

"I had seen this Yéti in an artistic event in dans un Nantes, and produced the model. I needed 200 for  Nuit Blanche. But I received only twenty. I had asked fashion schools but they did not answer or told me it was impossible. Then I found this marvelous workshop. It was undreamed of."   

*     *

During the first covid confinement the cooperative produced a million masks with filters, commission by the Mayor when they were still rare. 

*     *

Orders include costumes for an Opéra production: 

Fadel making coats for an Opéra show. 

 

"What was that show?" I asked."

 "I don't remember I've made the costumes for so many since then."   

*     *

"The cooperative is not only for money, but to show that we are useful."

-- Fadel

It also shows the vitality

of a production rooted in the neighborhood. 

*    *    *

Next,

Détour: For everything linked to sewing... 

DETOUR: FOR EVERYTHING LINKED TO SEWING...

START AT NEIGHBORING MARCHÉ SAINT-PIERRE AND STROLL DOWN THE HILL

Adapted from a Google map

In the background Halle Saint-Pierre, which exhibits "outsiders' art;" in front of it Dreyfus, five floors of textiles

Streets for textiles and their offshoots

Reine, another five-story textile store, facing the exhibition site

In front of one of many shops for notions, spools of thread for 1€

  

Wax: You can buy just 50 cm.

Avoid Friday afternoons, when many stores close for the Sabbath. 

Barbès, La Goutte d'Or, the marché Saint-Pierre: 

North African, Black and Jewish neighborhoods, 

complementary and side by side.

End of this section.

*      *      *

Next section,

3.5.6.

A couturier for Kenzo and Paco Rabanne 

III.5.7. A COUTURIER FOR KENZO AND PACO RABANNE

Menu: 3.5.7. A couturier for Kenzo &...

FADEL EMBODIES LA GOUTTE D'OR'S SURPRISE

Adapted from a Google map

Fadel Couture

 15 rue Affre (corner of rue Cavé) 

+33 (0)6 81 06 61 90

fadelcouture@gmail.com

A creator

who turns down the couturiers

• With his perfect French...

• Sources of inspiration 

• The workshop 

• You may pass the workshop and not see it

*     *     *

Next,

With his perfect French...

WITH HIS PERFECT FRENCH...

THIS DEVOUT MUSLIM FROM MAURETANIA SHOWS AGAIN

HOW IMMIGRANTS STENGTHEN FRENCH TRADITION  —

HERE, COUTURE

The colors are those of the Mauritanian flag.

Open to all culture, Fadel likes country music, a glass of wine on occasion and this is one of his workshop's walls:

Though the governing elite assured his clientele, Fadel chose France for its freedom. But couturiers paid little for his prototypes and lifted his ideas.

They still contact him but he usually refuses, preferring private clients who entrust him with delicate alterations or an outfit 

to create from a drawing or photo.

Notice the tiny stitches.

He also creates his own collections.

*    *    *

Next,

Sources of inspiration

SOURCES OF INSPIRATION

AFRICA

Traditional bands of Senegalese cotton, among the world's best. 

 JAPAN

FRANCE, AS THIS COAT FOR ME 

The logo is embroidered by hand.

The coat is in the background.

"It's as good as haute couture," I said.

"Better," Fadel answered.

I've had compliments, even in the street. 

*    *    *

Next,

The workshop

THE WORKSHOP

# # #

You may cross paths with guides and their groups,

 young designers seeking advice 

or a member of the ruling family of Cayor, 

a kingdom of West Africa:

*      *     *

Next,

You may pass the workshop and not see it

YOU MAY PASS HIS WORKSHOP AND NOT SEE IT

 FADEL DOES NOT SEEK CLIENTS, SO LOOK CAREFULLY 

15 rue Affre (corner of rue Cavé)

Adapted from a Mappy plan

Should he offer you perfumed tea

it is a gesture of hospitality, not commerce.

End of this section.

*    *    *

Next section,

III.5.7.

Gentrification with brakes

III.5.7. GENTRIFICATION WITH BRAKES

MENU: 3.5.7. Gentrification with brakes

GENTRIFICATION USUALLY WIPES OUT LOCAL CULTURE. HERE CREATIVE NEWCOMERS BRING A (MOSTLY) HAPPY MIX 

Bank ad next to the Barbès metro

Bike repair at the heart of the neighborhood

Perry Féerique

32 rue Laghouat

A neighborhood festivity

Evolution

• Empty lots and new building

• Unfortunate: A Moroccan restaurant changes hands 

• Unfortunate: fast-food replaces a convivial bar

• But traditional and gourmet shops intertwine

• Social services, key to the mix 

*    *    *

Next,

Empty lots and new building