Paris from fresh perspectives: ON AVENUE D'IVRY, SMALL RESTAURANTS ALIGN

Paris from fresh perspectives

Saturday, November 6, 2021

ON AVENUE D'IVRY, SMALL RESTAURANTS ALIGN

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A bustling Vietnamese cantine

Posted by Catherine Aubin at 5:25 PM

Labels: 2.4.1.f. Some of the restaurants

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Catherine Loveland Aubin

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0. Ignored gaps reveal another past (1)
0.1. How these views began (1)
0.2. Thanks! (1)
0.3. Details (1)
0.4. Contents (1)
1. What makes France distinct? (1)
1.1. Setting the scene (1)
1.2. Players: legendary or unsung (9)
2. Visiting an unsuspected city (1)
2.1. The logic of the legendary core (1)
2.1.1. A spectral rampart (4)
2.1.2. Saint-Germain: rampart heir (10)
2.1.3. Lords step out from the shadows (6)
2.1.4. Back to the rampart On to the river (5)
2.1.5. Palaces: glory & demise (10)
2.2. Brands take over the historic center (1)
2.2.1. Palais-Royal now (7)
2.2.2. Left-bank oasis & recent past (6)
2.2.3. "Real" Paris's affordable shopping (8)
2.3. The royal route: rue Saint-Denis (1)
2.3.1. Medieval spirits linger (9)
2.3.2. The street of royal power (9)
2.3.3. Erasing rebel neighborhoods (1)
2.3.4. Crime. Nobles. Garment district (6)
2.3.5. An arc looms over the route (1)
2.3.6. Toward the horizon (6)
2.3.7. Immigrants energize tradition (3)
2.4. Vitality on other side of the tracks (1)
2.4.1. Europe's "Chinatown" (1)
2.4.1.a. Towers in advance of their time (5)
2.4.1.b. A walk where cultures mix (4)
2.4.1.c. The colors of streets & shops (3)
2.4.1.d. The Tang supermarkets (1)
2.4.1.e. Back to towers & beyond them (5)
2.4.1.f. Some of the restaurants (5)
2.4.1.g. Asians come out of the shadows (4)
2.4.2. The east: new worlds emerge (1)
2.4.2.a. Memories of insurrection (1)
2.4.2.a. Twd the Belleville crossing now (1)
2.4.2.b. The area stays left (1)
2.4.2.c. Mad descent from "La Courtille" (1)
2.4.2.e. Ménilmontant: walls to galleries (1)
2.4.2.f. Kitsch with class (1)
2.4.2.g. For pulse of city go east (1)
2.4.2.h. Bars & music (1)
2.4.2.i. Path through "real Paris" (1)
2.4.3. "Barbès don't panic" (7)
2.4.4. La Goutte d'Or: unhailed energies (1)
2.4.4.a. A setting of "Gauls" (8)
2.4.4.b. Arts known mainly to neighbors (7)
2.4.4.c. A couturier for Kenzo &... (5)
2.4.4.d. First steps in another land (8)
2.4.4.e. "Looks:" a sociable art (8)
2.4.4.f. Textiles. Tailors. Roots (7)
2.4.4.g. Gentrification with brakes (6)
2.4.4.h. The neighborhood keeps its soul (4)
2.4.4.i. "Emerging design hub of Paris" (4)
2.4.4.j. Suddenly visible Blacks (8)
2.4.4.k. Tomorrow's destination? (9)
2.4.4.l. Gertrd. Stein wd hv appreciated (4)
2.5. Family outings (1)
2.5.1. Kids follow signs & pictures (4)
2.5.2. A wood where children play (1)
2.5.3. New horizons (1)
2.5.4. Louvre with kids (or without them) (7)
2.6. Nobles. Gods. Heroes (1)
2.6.1. All aspects of life reinforce nobles (1)
2.6.2. Using antiquity vs the middle class (4)
2.6.3. History: anecdotes or economy? (1)
2.6.4. The gods' modernity (4)
2.7. What Opéra tours won't say (1)
2.7.1. A palace for a new elite (4)
2.7.2. Backers sex & money (6)
2.7.3. Blackout (5)
2.7.4. From nymphs to Nazis (3)
3. Why is the city so grand? (1)
3.1. Majesty on a human scale (1)
3.1.1. A parade route changes course (10)
3.1.2. The milestones' meanings (7)
3.1.3. Design inconceivable elsewhere (5)
3.1.4. The royal imprint blossoms (5)
3.1.5. The curtain falls (13)
3.2. A modern royal city (6)
3.3. Have the kings become subversive? (5)
4. A city of revolt and massacre (1)
4.1. History: which facts? (4)
4.1.1. Republican misunderstandings (5)
4.1.2. 1830: The people fooled (6)
4.1.3. 1848: fooled again (6)
4.1.4. City Museum & the insurrections (8)
4.1.5. Workers' first conscious revolt (7)
4.2. Fear: promoter of urban grandeur (1)
4.2.1. Metamorphosis seen up close (13)
4.2.2. Gifts of the repression (5)
5. La Commune (1)
5.1. Egalitarianism breaks through (1)
5.1.1. An unlikely revolution (1)
5.1.1.a. A war of choice brings disaster (10)
5.1.1.b. Explosion (8)
5.1.5. Success (1)
5.2. Civil war & carnage (1)
5.2.1. A fight of humble & privileged (1)
5.2.1. The humble vs. the powerful (1)
5.2.2. Rebel stories (3)
5.2.3. Versaillais soldiers & officers (2)
5.2.4. The adversaries (1)
5.2.5. Parisian sequels (1)
5.2.6. The past sways pop culture (1)
5.3. Ruins. Revenge. Evolution. (1)
5.3.1. Stress on ruins by rebels (3)
5.3.2. A church of vengeance (3)
5.3.3. Changed threat changed city (3)
5.4. Mystification (2)
5.4.1.a. Victors' inventions (4)
5.4.1.b. Modern slant (5)
5.4.1.c. Two historians fight back (1)
5.5. Fraternity that worked (1)
5.5.1.a. Leaders we wish we had (1)
5.5.1.b. Victories of La Commune (1)
5.5.1.c. Rooted in France now (2)
5.6. An omen and a turning point (3)
6. A Communard bastion transformed (1)
6.1. The fight for the hilltop (1)
6.1.1. Frenzied combat (1)
6.1.2. Communard fighters (1)
6.1.3. A panel mentions La Commune... (1)
6.1.4. The Communard spirit continues (1)
6.2. An epicenter of misery (1)
6.2.1. "A lost district at the city's edge" (1)
6.2.2. Disease. Crime. Revolt (1)
6.2.3. Vanished industry (1)
6.2.4. Third-world rev. training ground (1)
6.3. An outskirt that used to be chilling (1)
7. A past forgotten yet indelible (1)
7.1. A district that leans left (1)
7.2. In the footsteps of "demons" (1)
7.2.1. City-run residences... (1)
7.2.2. Passage by which survivors fled (1)
7.2.3. More social services... (1)
7.2.4. Sculptures. Bikes. Gyms. Gardens (1)
7.2.5. Election posters (1)
7.2.6. Shops Communards wd hv valued (1)
7.3. Parks & murals replace industry (1)
7.3.1. Parks take over a sugar refinery (1)
7.3.2. Art animates low-cost construction (1)
7.3.3. Giant park on a gas-making site (2)
7.3.4. Paintings everywhere (1)
7.4. A place to pitch your tent? (1)
7.4.1. Arts you discover by chance (1)
7.4.2. The city's newest festival (1)
7.5. More gifts from City Hall (1)
7.8. The future springs up from behind (1)
8. What happened? The war did (1)
8.1. "Better Hitler than Blum" (1)
8.2. Conservatives & the Resistance (1)
9. Epilogue (1)
9.1. "Yr teachng Communism to the police!" (1)
9.2. "Yr misled but not bought. Join us!" (1)
9.3. "Don't you have an agenda?" (1)
x. An index to click into (1)
x.i. Importance of the economic base (1)
x.ii. Omissions by trusted authorities (1)
x.iii. Dramas show how things work (1)
x.iv. Notice anomalies & details (1)
x.ix. Visits based on observation (1)
x.v. Priorities that urban designs reveal (1)
x.vi. Classic art as social weapon (1)
x.vii. Outskirts: cauldrons of the arts (1)
xx. Recommendations (1)

THIS CHAPTER'S TITLES

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