Thursday, February 14, 2019

3.8.9. A PORTAL TOWARD THE MUSIC OF THE OUTSKIRTS


WORLD MUSIC...

Biba Arif at 360

...and urban arts, somber, brief and powerful, which often come from the grim outskirts, with an evening of slam at NFO Barbara, described below:


   For an introduction to this collection, please click (in French)
"I have memories of paradise and a pack of scars..."
   


It let poets perform for the first time:


# # #

  
Posters for performances dot the walls:  





  

Performances can be official, at the 360 or its City-sponsored precursor...

The other performance site of La Goutte d'Or

Open in 2008, it precedes the possible bet of the area becoming an international destination. The architecture and name are hermétique (FGO : « Fleury Goutte d'Or », after the street behind the 'édifice; Barbara, d. 1997, a singer known mainly in France). 

...or very small...


...or private.

"Pape Faye, son of Assane M'Baye, for your ceremonies." The message implies initiates.


Musicians met in the street

  • "Madame! He just bought his guitar!," a friend of the young man called down from a window. 

 




# # #

I realized that the page should show how many posters are present on a single day. Some of those noticed on May 2, 2026: 





# # #

La Goutte d'Or is a gateway
to the immense periphery where immigrants
invent music, poetry and dance. 

The group with whom this chapter began conclude their parade.


# # #

End of this section.

*    *    *

Monday, January 28, 2019

Saturday, January 26, 2019

3.9.1. A TAKE-OUT


A TINY SENEGALESE TAKE-OUT WHERE THE CUISINE IS EXCELLENT AND EVERYTHING IS FRESH

Keur Yacine
 11 rue Jean Robert, for which you cross the railroad tracks 


Yacine starts from scratch. I have seen her peel 20 kilos of onions
as a ventilator blows away the fumes.

Clients are hungry young men and portions are generous.

Fish, carrots, sweet potatoes, African vegetables and red rice, 8€. For desert, try "xayiri," made of yogurt, millet, cream, vanilla and orange-flower petals, 2€.

As it's also a take-out, you can buy lunch there
and picnic at square Léon 10 minutes away.

*    *    *
Next,





Friday, January 25, 2019

3.9.2. A PICNIC WHERE SCULPTURES PLAY

 

SQUARE LÉON, TEN MINUTES FROM THE TAKE-OUT AND FIVE FROM MÉTRO BARBÈS

Acrobats about which nothing is said

On weekends there may be a special event...



In any case children run around, parents watch, boys play soccer, men ponder checkers and Europeans relax in the sun:





This mural shows people of all origins happy together...

Panel at the police station

 After visiting La Goutte d'Or at least 50 times,
I think it tells the truth.

*    *    *

Thursday, January 24, 2019

3.9.3. AT A TIME WHEN THE PUBLIC VALUED ONLY CLASSIC WORKS...


GERTRUDE STEIN TRUDGED UP THE HILL TO DISREPUTABLE MONTMARTRE, WHERE SHE POSED FOR YOUNG, UNKNOWN PICASSO 80 TIMES

Portrait of Gertrude Stein by Pablo Picasso, 1904, Metropolitan Museum, New York / Elisabeth Rawson

Today La Goutte d'Or just down that hill is as far from convention's gaze as Montmartre was then and Stein might be as fascinated by its off-beat energy. One feels it in the conviviality of its beauty salons and tailors' workshops, the individualism of its hairstyles, the Sapeurs' cheerful irony, the striking attire and the universal amiability. 
 
Venturing into La Goutte d'Or follows her spirit.

End of this chapter on the vitality
of outskirts and immigrants.  

*     *     *

Friday, September 28, 2018

KIDS RELATE TO THE TROUBLES OF A TEEN-AGED KING...


AND HIS COUP D'ETAT INTRIGUES THEM*

*For how Louis XIII came to power, please click Fatal passion at the Louvre
 
Maurice Leloir in Richelieu by Théodore Cahu, 1901, a history of France for children

The court ignores him and he pretends to be retarded...

He threatens to shoot his toy cannon at ladies-in-waiting.


But a few allies know differently and when he is 15, help him put through a coup d'état:

   "At last I am king!" he cries from a palace window. 

Louis has left signs so that his followers 
can join him at the castle where he hides. 
The children look for them. 


*    *    *

Next,





Thursday, September 27, 2018

START AT THIS MARKET


ON TUESDAY, FRIDAY OR SUNDAY MORNINGS AT THE CORVISART MÉTRO STOP

Adapted from a Mappy plan

The street behind the flower stand is filled with pictures:

 Rue des Cinq Diamants








The enclave has no bank or post office, just a grocery at the crossroads:




At the grocery turn right (on "Main Street," rue de la Butte-aux Cailles) to come to a crossroad ("place de la Commune"):


More here.

*    *    *

Next,





Wednesday, September 26, 2018

COME TO A "CASTLE"


WALK DOWN THE LANE WHERE THESE NEIGHBORS CHAT
(RUE BUOT)





Turn back...



Pass the grocery and take rue de la Butte-aux-Cailles in reverse, past cheerful cafés and restaurants... 

A crêperie

Descend the next small street to the right (passage Boiton)...






Saint-Anne's in the Butte-aux-Cailles: more later.

At the church, return to the restaurants and continue down the street:




At its end, the young king's hideaway... 

A swimming pool of the 1930's.

And rewards:



Continue at 
the magnificent parc de Choisy
and have dinner in "Chinatown."

End of this section.

*     *     *

Next section,