Wednesday, February 12, 2025

IS THERE ANYTHING NEW TO SAY ABOUT PARIS?


MAIS ABSOLUMENT!

As an American historian who has lived in Paris for decades, I would like to show you this fascinating city through my eyes. I'm most interested in two aspects: the creativity of outskirts and immigrants, and an ignored past.

THE OUTSKIRTS, 
WHERE TODAY'S CREATIVITY BLOOMS 
 
Paris harbors an immense number of artists in all domains, most of whom are foreign-born and live not in the places once associated with them   Saint-Germain, Montmartre, Montparnasse — but in the unsung outskirts, with their (almost) affordable rents. The painter whose drawings dot these pages, Harald Wolff, is an example: He is German and lives in Montreuil, a plebeian suburb east of the city.


Those outskirts are where major cultural initiatives are launched (for examples, please click here and here) and experiments tried (for a performance that made the streets the stage, click here).

It's where immigrant energies flourish. Take La Goutte d'Or, a neighborhood at the city's northern edge where Africans come for a taste of home


Uncredited photos are mine.
Seen on rue Doudeauville, "Main Street"



  • "Art must express a philosophy. Otherwise it is just decoration," an art critique told me in another context. By evoking individual uniqueness within a cohesive community, those posters suggest a view of humanity that Westerners might ponder. 

Barbershop sign on a La Goutte d'Or side street

# # #

A PAST THAT IS OMITTED WHEN IT SEEMS ODD OR  CONTRADICTS THE USUAL VIEW

Odd: How Louis XVI tried to flee revolutionary Paris (in 1791)

He sought to join the royalist army at the border, was recognized, arrested and brought back to Paris by a return that instead of one day took three: Crowds came in such number to insult the king who wished to abandon his people that the coach could advance only step by step. The debacle ended the aura of the 1500-year-old monarchy, and is considered as important as taking the Bastille.

The way in which Louis ran off seems incomprehensible to modern people. If he and his family had gone separately in ordinary vehicles as so many noble émigrés did, they should have reached the border safely. Instead they travelled with chambermaids and the children's governess in two coaches, one of them immense. Guards accompanying it wore bright yellow liveries that resembled those of the former lord of the lands through which they passed, now the commander of the émigré army whose invasion the frontier population dreaded. An escort of 300 French dragoons and German-speaking mercenaries, all in striking uniforms, was staggered along the last part of the route, beyond the reach of pursuers on tired horses.
 
     Harald Wolff
The liveries

Narrators find the king's travel choice "reckless," but overlook the other aberrations. One learns of them by scrutinizing their texts or the account of the governess. In fact they show the flight's real objective: Historians miss it by disregarding what they do not understand.  

The Evasion of Louis XVI by Viktor Lazarevski, 2013 
The movie follows historians.

For the story please click here and for its puzzles and their explanations, here. For the general importance of anomalies, here.

*    *

Contradictions to the accepted view: Take the 19th-century insurrections. Though their ripples spread through Europe and helped shape our world, they are downplayed or omitted.

  • Many people think that these iconic figures are storming the Bastille (in 1789) though in fact the Revolution of 1830 inspired the work. It finished what the French Revolution began — let capitalism take wing by crushing the nobles. But that is almost never mentioned. Capitalism isn't either.

Liberty Guides the People by Eugene Delacroix, 1830-1831 (cut) / zoom*

*« Zoom » allows clicking to obtain the whole or enlarged image and information on it.

  • The first massive working-class uprising (5000 dead), the"June Days" of 1848, is forgotten. So is the terror with which the privileged viewed the "barbarian" insurrectionists. One result: The advent of the most autocratic regime in Europe then (the Second Empire, 1851-1870).

      Combat at the Saint-Denis gate, anonymous lithograph, 1848 / zoom

 

  • Another result: the way in which the still-medieval city was transformed (in 1853-1869). Looking closely at its changes shows their military priority. That's not done.  

The arrow leads to the river with the turbulent Latin Quarter students on its further bank.

Notre-Dame Cathedral's vast parvis (of 1853) makes the giant church seem smaller and less imposing than when medieval houses huddled up to it. 


Combat at the rue Soufflot by Horace Vernet, 1848 / zoom 

The void let troops assemble should Latin Quarter students revolt again (the painting above shows them backing the workers in 1848). The monument in the in the distance (the Panthéon) could be bombarded from the parvis once the buildings bordering the river had been torn down.

Nothing is said about this.


  • The Paris Commune sketched out a society that was democratic, egalitarian and fraternal (in 1871). Its repression foreshadows 20th-century calamities and its memory still inspires the left...

          Proclamation of La Commune, March 26, 1871, anonymous engraving / zoom
Commemorative parade, 2021

But otherwise as it is passed over.

One would expect the the Musée Carnavalet (the historical museum) to present those upheavals in an objective way. But after suggesting an almost peaceful peaceful French Revolution by relegating popular insurgents to a corner, it presents the street fighters of 1830 as modish youths, the working-class upheaval of 1848 by blocks that evoke barricades with which kids can play and La Commune by mainly irrelevant works in a four-meter passage between rooms devoted to elites.

Schoolbooks, historical street panels and much recent historical writing have a similar bias.

# # #

In short, what you will find here has little to do with the usual views. There's space for comments at the end of each page: I would love to know what you think. Political remarks are welcome.

# # #

This « blook » (a book that uses the web as a blog does) draws upon photos, paintings and drawings to make its points briskly. The index, under the menu on the right, gives immediate access to the main ideas. Epilogue suggests their wider relevance.

Its sequel, History from fresh perspectives, shows how an economic approach to the past transforms the meaning of many events, and how it explains the omissions these pages point out.


Links toward what follows
 introduce each section.
Click on the first to follow the progression,
or on that of a particular topic.
 
     





    Tuesday, February 4, 2025

    0.1. HOW THESE VIEWS BEGAN


    I GREW UP IN NEW JERSEY...

    Where my French maman ignored my saddle shoes and "Seventeen" and detested Elvis. She raised me as if I were French —  the ways of Middlesex County and Paris were so different! Dealing with two truths encouraged reflection.

    My junior year was in Paris. I loved its past, which I saw as a series of exploits by individuals in largely political contexts. But a young man I met at the Sorbonne thought differently: to make sense, he insisted, events, attitudes, beliefs had 
    to be placed in their underlying economic contexts, with the practical interests they reinforced or challenged. And that,” he said, "comes from Karl Marx." 

    My fascination for Paris lasted longer than our marriage and I have lived in this magnificent city ever since.
     
    My father was a professor and I expected to become one (B.A. Vassar, Masters Harvard, Ph.D. Columbia, all in history). But teaching in a French university then was impossible without a French degree. So I became a tour guide, and this blook is the result.

    # # #

    A memory: 

    Toward 1955, a French aunt, Magda Trocmé, 
    whom my dad called "Hurricane Magda" 
    came to visit us when on a speaking tour.

    She and her husband, André Trocmé, were well-known for their anti-Nazi pacifism and after the war were critical of President Eisenhower's Cold War policies. My father, a stoical New Englander, would leave after dinner, leaving Maman and Aunt Magda to "discuss."

    Harald Wolff
    "Eisenhower is an old trousers of a general."  "No!!!"

    I would listen from the top of the stairs and remember their enthusiasm for exchanging ideas, without expecting to persuade. (But the discussion may have nuanced their extremely vehement points of view.)

    There's a space for comments at the end of each page,
    and I'd like to know what you think. 
    Political critiques are welcome.

    *    *    *
    Next,




    Monday, February 3, 2025

    0.2. THANKS!

    ESPECIALLY TO...


    Henry Aubin, Carolyn Ristau and Glenn Holliman for their invaluable critiques, Claude Abron for years of picture-taking and Harald Wolff for his drawings.

    Harald Wolff

    For other direct help...



                         
    To those whose pictures come from the Internet...




    *    *    *

    Next,





    Sunday, February 2, 2025

    0.3. DETAILS



    "ZOOM" UNDER PICTURES MEANS THEY COME FROM THE WEB

    Clicking leads to enlargements and to official data. 

      Mona Lisa by Leonardo da Vinci, 1503-1505. Plus zoom

    When the Internet gives no further data, I say so.  

    • Modern images are credited to the artist or photographer. Photos without a credit are mine.  

    • For historical information I cite the source, and give page numbers for information that you might want to check.

    • Ads, displays, street art, coiffures, exhibits etc. evolve. I give the dates when photos were taken if pertinent.  

    • This blook began in 2012 and keeps evolving.

    # # #

     I sometimes compare 
    France and the United States,
    but these pages are meant for all.

    *     *     *

    Next,